Nearly empty stone street at sunrise. A man stands with a motorcycle on one side, on the other a graffiti mural is on a wall.

Return to the Road

Mark Stewart Destinations Leave a Comment

Saturday. 10-15-22. El Tunco, El Salvador. Strung out. The car is finally parked. I’ve never driven here before, though I’ve spent enough time on these roads to know they can get a little sketchy. Driving at night only makes things worse. Hitting that random speed bump at 60 certainly woke me up. I was laser-focused after that. We’d been up for 18 hours by this point. Exhausted, everything was hazy. But we were ecstatic, on familiar turf. We sat under …

Two photos. A street and volcano on the left, a lifeguard tower on the right in Guatemala and El Salvador

How to Take the Local Bus from Guatemala to El Salvador

Kylee Hayes Destinations 20 Comments

Riding the famous chicken buses of Central America is a right of passage for many travellers. It’s an experience like no other. And while most travellers on the gringo trail take the shuttle between these two countries (we did the first time!), this is a much more interesting, and far cheaper method. So if you’re like us and like to save money and enjoy the thrill of local transport, here are the bus routes connecting the most popular destinations from Guatemala to El Salvador. …

Red bus with flashy decals and stickers passing a blue building. This is one of the buses that can take you from Antigua to Panajachel

The Famous Central American Chicken Bus

Mark Stewart Destinations Leave a Comment

Taking local transport while travelling is one of our favourite ways to really experience a destination. It’s far more than simply a mode of transport, it’s en experience. And the legendary chicken buses of Central America are some of the best in the world. There are few experiences like taking a chicken bus. For many backpackers, it’s a right of passage, even a badge of honour, to travel this way. They’re not just exciting, they’re affordable. And, much like visiting …

Old white van sitting on blocks on a dirt road.

How to Get from El Tunco to Leon; or: Travel is the Worst

Mark Stewart Destinations 6 Comments

*Updated January 2019 This is an account of one of many such journeys throughout our years of travel. Although experiences are rarely so interesting as this one, from time to time, travel days don’t always go as far as expected or planned. Our recent trip via bus from El Tunco to Leon (El Salvador to Nicaragua), is one such experience. Skip to the Tips! Though the bulk of this post is a story of our day/evening/night/morning, if you’re planning this …

Pile of coconuts beside a log with a machete on top

At Least the Coconuts were Free…

Mark Stewart Destinations 10 Comments

Being budget travellers we’re always looking for ways to stretch the dollars as far as possible. One of the best ways to do this is to volunteer your time in exchange for food and accommodation. While it isn’t quite as helpful as actually earning an income, we just aren’t yet in a position to make that happen, simply not spending anything is better than nothing. However, on some rare occasions, the description of the situations are slightly misleading to what …

Man sits by a lake with two volcanoes in the background at Lake Atitlan, Guatemala

Reflecting on Five Months Central America

Mark Stewart Destinations 25 Comments

Tuesday. 02-06-18. Medellin, Colombia. It’s such a tiny area. The entirety of Central America – including the regions of Mexico we visited – could fit within the country of France. Yet every country is different than the next, each one having its own distinct culture. In Guatemala for example, the Mayan roots are very obvious; from physical features to traditional clothing and general way of life. While right next door in El Salvador, due to several tragic moments in recent …

Tall and thin waterfall in front of a large cluff

Cliff Jumping in El Salvador

Mark Stewart Destinations Leave a Comment

El Tunco is typically known for two things, either a quick stopover point after crossing into El Salvador from Guatemala, or for surfing. Considering the rocky coastline and our lack of surfing skills, we fit into the first category. A few short hours on a bus from Antigua to El Tunco, or five chicken busses over an entire day to get to anywhere else in El Salvador, it wasn’t a tough decision…

Latin Pickled Slaw Recipe (Curtido)

Mark Stewart Recipe Leave a Comment

This might very well be one of the easiest recipes you’ll ever make. It originally accompanied another recipe on this site. However, seeing as curtido compliments so many other foods, we decided it deserves its own post. During our first day in El Salvador is when we encountered curtido for the first time. The simple yet perfect pupusa, national dish of the country, is never served without this delicious slaw. Almost like a Latin saurkraut, the sharpness of the vinegar …

Recipe: Vigorón [Yuca con Chicharrón]

Mark Stewart Recipe 2 Comments

Vigoron. Found on street corners and kitchens throughout Central America, primarily El Salvador, Nicaragua and Costa Rica. While technically a salad, it resembles one only in the vaguest way. While consisting of only three components, it requires all three to avoid it being a confusing or outright unenjoyable mess. We first saw this interesting mixture for the first time on the streets of Santa Ana, El Salvador. Though we were curious, the long, chaotic lines surrounding the food carts steered …